Tartans: Pleasures and Treasures by
Christian Hesketh
My rating: 4 of 5 stars
Having finished reading this book a couple of months ago, I wanted to return as this book changed my understanding of tartans and kilts.
The book goes back to the beginning, as far as possible to the clothing worn by the Scottish, particularly in the Highlands. For most people, it was not much and back then mainly animal skins as they were poor and this was hundreds of years before the sheep came to the landscape. Only chiefs and richer men wore tartans. The earliest written reference to Highland dress is from 1093. while one of the earliest images of a tartan is from 1571, and it looks vastly different from what you see today. The book covers all the changes from the earliest time until modern, which in this case was 1961 when the book was published.
Clan tartans may not have been consistent with specific families, up until the Battle of Culloden. The author says the evidence is murky, a point that will always be debated, but one thing was certain that “none of the tartans known to have been worn by the Jacobite chiefs of the time can be identified with any clan tartans in use today.” And more evidence is given to back this up.
That battle changed everything. Afterwards, the Dress Act prohibited the highland clothing, which was quite popular by the Scottish men. The only place one could wear a tartan during this time was in the army. The author suggests that many signed up in order to wear their beloved kilts. Well there was high unemployment, and poverty, it was a good job. Still, it seems ironic to join those oppressing you.
Interestingly: “Trousers were so unpopular among the clansmen, that for long journeys, rather than put them on they preferred to hand them over their shoulders, and wear instead a makeshift skirt”.
During the 35 years of the hated act, the clan tartan and kilts became romanticized. And yet, “the Act [was] to break the link uniting the people of the Highlands to their traditional form of dress, and in this it succeeded only too well…. Highland dress became less and less the everyday wear of fishermen and crofters, and more and more a conscious manifestation of national pride.”
In 1822 King George IV visited Edinburgh and wore a kilt of the Royal Stewart tartan. This was a significant event, a turning point in the history of Highland dress. This was also the era when for the first time when manufacturing of perfect accuracy large quantities of the same design and material became possible.
Shortly after, in 1831 the book The Scottish Gäel was published, a first book to describe tartans in existence. The author readily admitted it wasn’t exhaustive, but did accurately describe 55 different setts. The next book several years later, Vestiarium Scoticum, contained illustrations of 75 tartans. According to Hesketh the veracity of some of these tartans are hotly debated, some may have been invented for the occasion of the book. Oddly enough, the authors of the Vestiarium, were brothers with quite the false claim of their background, “idiotic fraud”. Yet despite this the book has become important, along with other books by the brothers on the Highland culture.
Queen Victoria visiting the Scottish lands in the mid-1800s became much attached and established a place at Balmoral. She even brought Scotland to England with Scottish dances at the royal balls, thus brought the Celtic revival.
Today (still the 1960s) they saw some women, girls, wearing kits, which is not the traditional way, and the author was against that. There is a small amount of information on the women’s wearing of tartans, and how that has changed through the years.
It was a fascinating and informative book, despite being quite short. I must stay something about the format and style. The writer frequent wrote complicated double negative sentences with often would obscure the meaning. Found that frustrating at times to get what she meant. The book contains a large number of images: photos, drawings, plates, and such, it is to a great benefit of the book. I looked through the book many times before actually setting down to read the text. The problem with the text though, is when it refers to an image or plate it is often on several pages before or ahead, so while reading you are constantly flipping through the book. I’ve never seen such poor layout of a book before.
Due to those two complications the book didn't get the full five stars.
Initial short review:
finally finished this short book.
quite informative about tartans and kilts. I hope to add some additional notes.